Superchager montajı adım adım resimli

ApSUVai

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Bolt the throttle body to the new manifold and bolt the IACV to the back side, be sure you didn't lose the o-ring on the IACV. You can now reinstall the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail by using the supplied JRSC adapter flange.
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When bolting the FPR to the JRSC adapater, be sure you have the o-ring properly seated.
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We opted to use a Vortech modified FPR on this install. However, bolting it on is exactly the same as the stock unit. Make sure the when you push the rear engine harness towards the block, that your run the passenger side of the harness under the water hose that connects the head to the water neck. This will help hold the engine harness in its new location.

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Double check the tensioner on the JRSC pulley and reconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail. Be sure all the crush washers are in place.
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Go ahead and reinstall the intake.
Make sure the alternator belt is in place correctly and properly tensioned. You can now lower the car.
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Reinstall the power steer pump and belt. Be sure it is tensioned properly as well.
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Now go ahead and install the JRSC FMU. The fuel return line that you replaced earlier on the firewall connects to the outer nipple while a new fuel line goes from the center nipple to the FPR on the fuel rail. Securely bolt the FMU to a suitable location on the firewall. Connect a vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR.
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Connect another vacuum line from the manifold to the JRSC FMU. You can tee off this line for additional boost sensing equipment such as a boost gauge.
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With the manifold seperated from the head, you can now lift it up and disconnect the remaining hoses on the underside of the intake manifold. Once the manifold is out of the car, you can lift out the intake manifold support bracket.
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Now do yourself a favor and walk over to the nearest garbage can and throw the bracket away.
Now you can clean off the old intake manifold gasket. If it doesn't come off in one piece then use a scraper or
putty knife and carefully scrape it off of the head. Be careful not to scratch the head. A new gasket is advised.
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Now, carefully disconnect the original coolant line running from the block to the firewall.
Do not squeeze the nipple too hard as it is very soft and will crush easily. Use the new supplied coolant line and reattach.
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Now you must extend the intake air temperature connector harness. Cut off the connector about 2" from the end and extend the wires. With the stock manifold off of the motor, go ahead and remove the throttle body and IACV from the manifold. Be careful not to lose the o-ring on the IACV. If damaged, replace it.
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Remove the IAT sensor from the stock manifold and install it onto the Jackson manifold. At the same time,
install the pressure sensor, actuator and nipples. Be sure to use some teflon tape on the the threads to avoid vacuum leaks.
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Now you can remove the oil filter from the block. This will give you access to the oil cooler (if you car is equipped with one).
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You can see some of the lines that run to the oil cooler. Disconnect them from the cooler and remove
the center bolt holding the oil cooler in place.
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Now you can lift out the oil cooler and set aside. You will be reinstalling it. At this time,
disconnect the stock fuel return line from the metal line on the firewall.
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Reinstall the oil cooler onto the back of the block. However take note of the position of where the upper nipple is. It now has to point at the 9 o'clock position. It originally pointed in the 12 o'clock position. This is vital that it points at the 9 o'clock position for clearance issues. The nipple must also be hoziontal the to floor or pointing slightly upwards, if it doesn't, then carefully bent it by inserting a screwdriver. Using the orignal hose on the oil cooler with the largest radius, reconnect the lower nipple to the main water line.

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Here you can see a comparison of the stick alternator pulley and new JRSC pulley that will drive the supercharger. An impact wrench will come in handy to remove the bolt on the alternator for you to swap pulleys.
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Now remove the old alternator bracket from the back of the block. You can them side by side with the new JRSC alternator bracket
 
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Now you will need to slightly bend the powersteering line on the driverside of the car on the fender. Using a long handled hammer or equivelent, push the metal line towards the fender as much as possible. This is necessary to clear the new belts that will drive the supercharger. With that done, you can now install the new pulley bracket to the back of the block.
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Now you will have to relocate the main engine harness. Move it as close as possible to the block. Run the engine harness underneath the PCV line. Again this is vital for clearance issues.

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Reconnect the water temperature sensor. Then remove the vacuum canister from the underside of the stock intake manifold. You will need to remove the solenoid.

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With the solenoid removed, reconnect it to the harness and zip tie it securely to the engine harness. Now remove the fuel filter from the firewall.

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Remove the throttle cable bracket from the firewall. This will give you more room to install the JRSC manifold and charger in the following steps. You can see here the JRSC manifold and a new intake gasket. It is good idea to coat the gasket with a little oil on both sides, this will allow you to reuse the gasket in the future if you ever need to take if off again. It will prevent the gasket from sticking to the manifold or head.

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Put the new intake gasket onto the head and lower the JRSC manifold into place. The manual says to install the charger after the manifold is in place, however we decided it was easier to lay the charger down first and then install the manifold.
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Using the original nuts, bolt the manifold to the head. Be sure you do not drop anything down the injector holes. With the charger already underneath the manifold. Use some sealant on the mating surface of the charger and the manifold and have someone hold it in place while you carefully bolt the charger to the manifold through the access holes on the top of the manifold. Be careful not to drop anything inside.
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With the charger in place, you can now install the caps that fill the holes on the top of the manifold. You some silcone sealant on the threads to avoid vacuum leaks. Then reinstall the injectors and fuel rail. Be sure to apply a light coat of oil on the o-rings before inserting the injectors into the manifold.
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Depending on the year of your car, you may need to use a Tee fitting on the vacuum source from the manifold to run the PCV valve. Remove the purve control solenoid from the stock manifold and bolt it to the JRSC manifold. Double check that nothing is binding or pinched.
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Use the new supplied spacers on the fuel rail before bolting it down.
As with the intake gasket, apply a light coat of oil on the throttle body gasket
 
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Bolt the throttle body to the new manifold and bolt the IACV to the back side, be sure you didn't lose the o-ring on the IACV. You can now reinstall the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail by using the supplied JRSC adapter flange.
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When bolting the FPR to the JRSC adapater, be sure you have the o-ring properly seated.
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We opted to use a Vortech modified FPR on this install. However, bolting it on is exactly the same as the stock unit. Make sure the when you push the rear engine harness towards the block, that your run the passenger side of the harness under the water hose that connects the head to the water neck. This will help hold the engine harness in its new location.

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Double check the tensioner on the JRSC pulley and reconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail. Be sure all the crush washers are in place.
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Go ahead and reinstall the intake.
Make sure the alternator belt is in place correctly and properly tensioned. You can now lower the car.
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Reinstall the power steer pump and belt. Be sure it is tensioned properly as well.
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Now go ahead and install the JRSC FMU. The fuel return line that you replaced earlier on the firewall connects to the outer nipple while a new fuel line goes from the center nipple to the FPR on the fuel rail. Securely bolt the FMU to a suitable location on the firewall. Connect a vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR.
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Connect another vacuum line from the manifold to the JRSC FMU. You can tee off this line for additional boost sensing equipment such as a boost gauge.
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Set the ignition timing to 8-10deg BTC and remove the rear seats to install the new high flow fuel pump.
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Remove the cover on the fuel pump to expose to original unit. Unbolt it from the frame and remove the original cap and pump assembly.
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Disconnect the fuel line from the pump and remove the old pump from the assembly. Install the new pump. We used a Walbro high flow unit.
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The new pump will bolt right in without modification. Replace into the fuel tank and reinstall the cover and seats. Your done!

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Muratcan abi mustang'e turbo takılmıyor değilmi? (ben oyunda gördüm turbo değil superchager takılıyordu)
 
Muratcan abi mustang'e turbo takılmıyor değilmi? (ben oyunda gördüm turbo değil superchager takılıyordu)
Bora fark etmez ikiside takılır .. Aynı mantıkta çalışan sistem ama mustang supercharger daha iyi oldugu ıcın o konuyor ;)
 
İştahlı iştahlı bakıyordum honda logosunu görünce hayallerim yıkıldı :D
 
Abi renaultta zor bole uygulamalar alısın derım paylasımların %60 ı honda olcak :D yaparım ben dıyen cıkarsa yapılır resımlenır konulur :D
 
Sevmiim hondayı :D
 
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