ApSUVai
Bilgi Girilmemiş
Now remove the intake manifold cover
And release the fuel pressure by first removing the gas cap and then loosening the fuel pressure release valve on the fuel rail
Next I removed my DC shorty header and the heat shield. These are the bolts that need to be removed in order to get the header loose from the cat.
I couldn’t get good pics of the heatshield bolts so use your imagination
Now remove the header
Now that you have room to roam, it’s heatwrapping time. This is probably the most frustrating and annoying part. Take my advice and don’t cut any of your zip ties until you are all done with the install. This will help to avoid cutting the crap out of your hands on the sharp edges. Wrap everything in sight. Don’t kill anyone.
Take off the wires plugging into the VTC solenoid
Now remove the VTC solenoid and its heat shield and pull back the rubber cover on the oil pressure sensor
Reinstall the taps and the elbow for the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure gauge and the oil feed line.
Then reinstall the oil pressure sensor, and install the oil feed line and the oil pressure gauge fitting.
You may notice that this all doesn’t fit very well… and it’s also recommended to only have 1 t-fitting on the block since all that weight can cause it to break off, and we don’t want that. I decided to get some high-pressure hose with premade fittings and extend it. Sorry, these are bad pics… I’ll try to take better ones later.
Next, install the stud bolts in the engine block and on the header, then install the header using your OEM gasket.
Heatwrap the turbo actuator, check all fittings and install your turbo and compressor, make sure you remember the gasket. Notice that the oil feed line comes up from the back in this pic. Do this if you are routing your oil feed line from the engine block, otherwise I’d recommend putting it on later.
Fasten the oil feed line to avoid getting any dust or debris in the turbo, if you need to move it later it’s easy.
Heatwrap your oil feed return line and install it with the provided gasket. I used an 8” extension to do this, you’ll definitely need a long one, at least a 6”. Install the banjo bolt or the bung if you tapped your pan. Then hook up the oil return bracket to keep the hose from hitting the axle. Modify the driveshaft heat shield if you plan on re-installing it.
Now you need to install the downpipe. I installed an EGT gauge so I drilled the DP and then had the bung welded to it.
Make sure to run a tap through the bung after to make sure it didn’t warp from the heat.
Now install the three stud bolts, gasket and then the downpipe. If you put the EGT sensor in the same spot I did, this can be installed after.
Ok… more removal of stock parts. I don’t have shots of taking off the bumper or removing the front bumper support, so you’re on your own. After that, it’s time to take off the washer bottle. Remove the bolts holding it to the frame and drain that bish. Those things just pop right out of there with a little force applied with a screwdriver. Make sure you have something in place to drain it into.
There’s a piece of the frame that needs to be removed.
Before:
After:
The horns also need to be removed. Then re-install the horns with the FMIC mounts and spacers in place
Next install the FMIC itself, taking care to align it properly
It’s a tight squeeze… but it’s not that bad (just wait, it gets worse) but it will fit, I promise. Install the compression pipe on the compressor and then the next one after that. Don’t worry about fastening anything down to the engine block yet, it’s easier to do it later.
I had to remove the stock battery grounding in order to properly route the hose. You can see in this pic that it’s in the way.
Now install the next piece of the compressor pipe, it’s easiest if you keep the screw heads pointed towards a place you can easily access them for tightening.
Test fit and install the compressor pipe to the intercooler
Now the real fun begins. Install the large pipe that runs across the front of the Intercooler. Rotate the clamp on the radiator hose so it moves it up slightly as per the Greddy install instructions and cram the charge pipe in there. It’s a helluva tight fit, but it will go if you have moved the radiator hose enough. Make sure the connections are tightened down very well, as you don’t want to try and tighten those hose clamps after it’s installed.
Then remove the battery and the tray; trust me, it makes everything so much easier that it’s well worth the effort. You will also have to remove the clips holding the wires coming from the positive battery cable and bend that bracket out of the way.
Next gently feed the final compressor pipe through the maze of wires, tubes and pipes. Take your time and check from the top and bottom to ensure you have it aligned properly.
Tighten the clamps down tight and ensure that all pipes are properly and fully inserted into the hose connectors. Remember, if these aren’t tightened properly you won’t get any boost.
Finally, once everything is tightened down properly bolt the piping down to the appropriate brackets. Spacers may be needed as the fitament varies depending on the car.
The next step is installing the suction pipe. Assemble the air filter and attach it to the suction pipe. Install the grommet for the IAT sensor. Feed the suction pipe through the forest of crap and fit it on to the compressor. Don’t tighten it down yet though, you’ll need it to be loose for the next step.
Now you need to fasten the intake to the bracket to keep it stable. Here’s a shot of the place on the tranny where it bolts down and of the bracket installed. You might as well install the bracket for the washer bottle at the same time (3rd pic).
You can see the other washer bottle bracket in that pic too, but here’s a closeup just for kicks.
Remove the injector wire cover from the fuel rail and snap it apart.
Remove the injector clips, then unbolt the fuel rail and pull it off the stock injectors. Then remove the stock injectors.
Cut the old injector clips, but make sure to leave tails on them in case you want to re-install them at a later date. Strip the wires, and solder on the new injector clips, making sure to put the shrink tubing on before you solder the connections.
Install the new fuel rail studs and spacers. Install the new injectors on the fuel rail, then insert the injectors into the intake manifold and tighten them down, making sure that the injector contacts are facing the engine. Then re-fasten the injector wire cover over the injector wires.
Tap the turbo actuator hose into the master vacuum hose. Connect the blow-by hose, the IAT sensor and the air control assist hose to the Intake. Tap the boost gauge and BOV lines too while you’re at it.
Get ready to hack your bumper. I used a Dremel… First line up the bumper and figure out where you want to cut it. Be patient otherwise you’ll end up hacking the crap out of it like I did.
Before:
After:
Mounted:
Final touches; installing the gauges. First pop off the old A-pillar.
Next, feed the lines for your gauges into the dash
Now pull the lines through as you pull the gauge pillar towards the a-pillar. You will want to put double sided tape on it if that’s how you are going to fasten it first.
I chose to wrap my lines to avoid clutter… it’s up to you to decide how to do yours.
Feed the lines under the dash
Then zip tie them out of the way.
On the engine bay side, feed a coathanger through the rubber grommet on the passenger side.
And here it comes through the firewall.
Tape your lines on and carefully pull through the firewall. If you have manual gauges, this is where you will most likely kink the lines, so be careful.
Here’s my oil pressure line all connected and heatwrapped.
Here’s the connection for my boost gauge.
And this shows the line for my EGT gauge.
